“We’re very humbled,” says Gary Rodely of Tathra Oysters on being announced as Producer of the Year at the delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards. “It’s a great recognition of a lifetime’s work.”

Speaking from Tathra on the south coast of NSW, Gary and Jo Rodely share the story of how an “early midlife crisis” saw them become world-class oyster producers.

“We had a lucky moment in life really, which is this fabulous, fabulous asset – Nelson Lake, which is our farm,” Gary says. “At the time, we were full of trepidation about whether we’d be able to make a living out of it. The rare thing about where we are is it’s in the national park; we’re actually farming oysters in the middle of the Mimosa Rocks National Park.”

The Rodelys had no experience of aquaculture when they bought the property in 1988, but over more than three decades, they have become recognised as a go-to for restaurants that value quality.

“I’ve been using Gary Rodely’s amazing Tathra oysters for years,” says chef, restaurateur and delicious. Produce Awards judge Neil Perry. “They are consistently incredible, both in texture and flavour. They are without doubt one of the greatest oysters in the world, and grown in one of the most beautiful places as well.” 

At Nelson Lake, the Rodelys are able to catch all their own wild spat – a distinctly different approach from the Pacific oyster industry, which largely relies on hatchery spat, Gary says. 

“The Sydney rock oyster industry is pretty much still driven by natural spat fall,” he says. “The oysters will spawn and the larvae will settle and you can put out apparatus to catch them. But also in the same estuary, we’re able to grow very good oysters. A lot of places might be either catching leases or growing leases. We’re fortunate to be able to do both in the one estuary.” 

The Sydney rock oyster is a “very rare oyster in worldwide terms”, according to Gary, growing up and down the NSW coastline, a little bit into the southern tip of Queensland and in Albany, Western Australia. By contrast, the Pacific oyster is grown in at least 66 countries around the world, and is known as a fast-growing oyster. Sydney rock oysters are slow growing, commonly taking more than three years, whereas the Pacific oyster will probably be ready for sale within eighteen months.

“We allow them a little bit longer again [than three years],” Gary says. “We reckon that’s probably a little bit of our secret, that gives us increased richness and complexity of flavour. It’s one of nature’s superfoods really, in that it’s like a big vitamin pill.”

Whatever the secret, Tathra Oysters made their mark on this year’s delicious. Produce Awards National Judging panel.

“The oysters that were presented to us at National Judging were nothing short of perfect,” says National Judge and acclaimed chef Josh Niland. “From its deep cup shell that has been expertly conditioned in such a way that the outcome is nearly spherical, to the rich, buttery full meat that has a length of taste that you never want to end. I could talk on and on about my praise for Jo and Gary and what they have done for Australian food.” 

Environmental conditions control the Rodelys’ season; they rely upon ocean temperature, wind and north-easterly ocean currents stirring up nutrients.

“We run a little shopfront here at Tathra that starts about November every year,” Gary says. “The oysters probably don’t get to restaurant quality until mid-December, and how long we run through really depends on whether it’s a wet or dry season. In dry times, we might get through to the end of June, but if it’s really wet – which means the oysters a very likely to spawn and lose condition – we might only get through to April.” 

Speaking to Gary and Jo Rodely, it’s clear that Nelson Lake has given them more than just a thriving business and a lauded product. At one time or another, both the Rodelys’ children, Sam and Brooke, have worked in the business. Sam, having studied marine biology, is now the farm manager, and charged with taking things forward. 

“Gary and I met nearly 40 years ago,” Jo says. “The first place he took me to on a date was Nelson Beach, which was the mouth of Nelson Lake. That was in 1982. We didn’t buy the farm until 1988 ,and we had no idea that would be in our future. We didn’t even know whether we had a future together. Looking back, our life together began at Nelson Beach.”

View all the National Winners of the 2021 delicious. Harvey Norman Produce Awards here.